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It's always good to test your 1/4" seam allowance to be sure it's accurate. If you change machines or maybe you just never tested it, this is a super simple way to be sure your seam allowance is 1/4". And I have a myth buster or two to share below
MYTH: I have a 1/4" foot on my machine so I don't need to test it
MYTH BUSTED: Even if you have a 1/4" foot for your machine it might need to be adjusted. You can't assume it is 100% accurate
If you check and it is NOT accurate, then shift your needle one position (which ever direction it needs) and test again.
On one machine I used a different foot edge with the needle shifted for the most accurate 1/4" seam on that machine.
At the END ARE TWO VIDEOs to help you out
Here is my super simple test
- Cut 3 squares 2 1/2" x 2 1/2".
- Use 2 different color fabrics so you can tell what you are doing
This is the 1/4" foot for my Babylock Crescendo.
I love the guide edge on this one. Your machine may have a different foot, or no 1/4" foot.
- Sew the 3 squares in a row.
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- My Babylock's Crescendo 1/4" seam foot sews a 'scant' 1/4" seam. Do you see how the seam is to the RIGHT of the line. When you fold over fabric it takes up a little space, so sewing with a seam just 'shy' of 1/4" is what works for most people.
- You need to go through this whole test to see how it ends up .. don't stop here!
- I have this little 1/2" wide ruler that i keep by my machine to check things.
- Press the unit so the right sides are up for all 3 squares. Do you see how the seam allowance creates a ridge?
- This is before i pressed it. when you press you need to have it flat. That way as you sew the units together they all are at the correct size.
- now let's test it!
MYTH: I'm done now I don't need to test
MYTH BUSTED: no you REALLY DO need to test!
First I measure JUST the center block. It should be 2" wide.
Now i measure the entire unit.
It should be 6 1/2" wide. Why?
- 2.5" sewn to 2.5" sewn to 2.5" = 6.5"
- Another way to know what the unit size is will be to add the FINISHED sizes of all 3.. that is 2+2+2 = 6... then add 1/2" for the seam allowance on both sides (1/4" + 1/4") to make the number to nail 6.5"
TIP: To test I like to shift that ruler down and have a straight line across the top and bottom of the patchwork.
Watch my video on this of mine on shifting the ruler down for measuring that I did for Martingale
So your block is Not accurate
What to do
- You can shift your needle to the right or left then recheck
- Try a different foot & shift the needle position until it's where it will give you a consistent accurate 1/4" seam
ANOTHER THING it might be
It might not BE the foot.
As we sew sometimes we don't stay true and on the line.
I show you this in the video above.
MYTH: It won't matter if my block is the wrong Size, if they are all too small or too large it's ok if they are the same size.
MYTH BUSTED: That ONLY works if you have drafted your own setting, or are putting the blocks side by side. If you are using a setting that has sashings, other blocks, units to piece, having incorrect blocks will not create a very sad face for you when you try and sew them together.
It's worth the time to check your units AS you work
THINGS to help you:
- My Teach Me books, the one on the left has all my tips for how to get accurate patchwork in a skill building step by step manner
- A 6.5" Quilting Ruler is pretty much mandatory work tool, get a good one
- BUY the narrow measuring Rulers
- a REALLY Good Iron, 20% off + free Shipping with code PATSLOAN20
- Download this TUTORIAL as a PDF, it's not pretty and no video..wink!
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